many many leaves and mud

One fine Saturday (ohsofine pa rin kahit umaambon), over lunch of unhealthy but yummerz barbQs, Valentine off-hand mentioned fiesta at their place in Nueva Ecija, feast of San Juan in Aliaga, better known as the Taong Putik Festival. She and buddy Alec were driving home later in the day. Chewed over between sleep and going (had wanted to check it out but never got the chance to). And by the power that compels itchy feet, managed to invite ourselves (kapal! mainly myself and then invited Gi and Rej), poor Valentine didn’t know what hit her but was gracious to spare the space in her pick-up. Sleep was going to have to wait after another day.

Getting there: via bus (approx. 4 hours) or hijack a ride with a really nice and gracious Nuevaena. With the latter you get to eat goto at the Cabanatuan plaza, stop for smoke at Select, and have warm pandesal and kape at her house at 3am. Pleasant ride in the rain that was, with 80’s mega-sappy hits providing background music (and again by that power that compels you, you sing along, feigning surprise at how you’ve memorized every sappy stinkin’ line).

What follows is a cut and paste (dahil much and better writing have been done on it, at mainly dahil tamaaad):

June 24 Taong Putik Festival Aliaga, Nueva Ecija:
In barangay Bibiclat, Aliaga, there is a unique practice among the devotees of Saint John the Baptist. They cover their bodies with mud and dry leaves and vines to denote the humble origins of the Saint (religious mud bath, while in other parts of the country it’s the traditional dousing of water, as in baptism in the river).

Candles for offering to San Juan…the women who sell them go from one fiesta to another. Si Lola Fiesta Gel has been at it for more than a decade. (Due to shaky hands was not able to get a proper picture of her)

Another interpretation of the custom is the imitation Saint John the Baptist as he hid his role as the chosen one to baptize Jesus Christ by wearing animal skin to deceive those who were after his head.

Known as the taong-putik or the mud people, they ask alms and candles from the people and offering them to the Church during the special mass celebrated at 7:00 in the morning.

Men and women, young and old smear and cover their body with mud. They tie one end of the banana leaves and wear this to conceal their identities. They proceed anonymously to the barrio and visit each house where everybody awaits them. (Note for next visit: bring lotsa coins and buy many many candles)

NB: The parish priest was quick to remind that the people who participate are not be referred to as Taong Putik, only the media thinking itself creative coined the label. The participants should be properly referred to as Nagsa-San Juan, those emulating San Juan. And that, mind you, you photohogs, is the whole point of the event (note to self).

They believe that such a practice will cure sickness and bring a bounty in the harvest (will grant them passing the board exam, that visa, find the right one — here! i’m heeeeeeeeeere!).

Another part of the day is the Carabao Grand Prix….carabaos from all over the province take a break from lounging in the mud for a mad dash for the pot price.

meet the race favorite…Barumbado!!! (consequently ruined a cart and almost crashed into a wall)

‘got to chat with some of the Nagsa-San Juan and most of them said they were there for gratitude…a sickness cured, a prayer answered, a difficulty weathered…no longer asking, but in thanksgiving.

And so it was. thanksgiving day… as Tiks had said, d best things in life are spontenyus. we had a great spontenyus weekend trip, three spontenyus lunch around town, spontenyus pictures and saw spontenyus Barumbado in action.

daybreak saw the celebration of the mass…and by that power that compels, was spontenyusly moved.

mood: cheerio cheerio

music: Two of Us . Beatles

~ by amats on July 6, 2007.